Plantains in Space
August 20th, 2011 § 2 Comments
I ate a space plantain the other day. It had the NASA logo on it:
(Ignore our messy kitchen in the background!)
This is roughly where the plantain was when I encountered it:
(Yes, this is corn. The shot turned out better than did my photo of the roasting plantains.)
Starchy foods like plantains, corn and yams make up a popular category of Ghanaian street food. They’re roasted over makeshift braziers like the one above, then wrapped in newspaper and sold for perhaps 50 pesewa, or US$0.35. The newspaper is usually not, as one might expect, the Chronicle or the Graphic, but rather tends to be a European or North American paper published some months ago. (My space plantain came wrapped in a Canadian paper dated from last March.)
The curious afterlife of Western newspapers isn’t just limited to wrapping up street food, as I discovered when I stopped at the bathroom at the Kintampo bus station and was handed some crumpled Dutch news from last September in lieu of toilet paper. Google hasn’t turned up any useful results about the frequency of old papers (printing overages? copies with serious errors in them? victims of the decline of physical publication?) being sold to traders in developing countries, and I am left to wonder who figured out that there was a market for cheap newsprint in Africa. I spotted some boys pulling a cart stacked with old newspapers at the downtown market the other morning, so I plan to return at the same time next week in hope of encountering them again and asking about their source.
IPA-Tamale in Hipstamatic
August 20th, 2011 § 2 Comments
This week’s session of “Ghana in Hipstamatic” turned into “spot the IPA logo”:
Witchcraft on the Small Screen
August 15th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
The STC bus that I caught from Accra to Tamale yesterday was equipped with a DVD player, and we were treated to four Nollywood productions, all of which were centrally concerned with witchcraft. I didn’t catch the title of the first one, but highlights included a man getting up in the midst of the night to swat at a moth in his room, only to have the insect turn first into a bird and then into his wife. Egg of Life portrayed a campfire story told by an older man to a group of children, about a chief’s son who was poisoned by the witches he had inadvisedly consorted with in his youth, and the group of female warriors who were sent to find the restorative Egg of Life. (The traditional costumes were quite lovely.) Brotherhood of Vipers was really beautifully lit, with deeply saturated colors lending interest to this story of business rivals using witchcraft to get ahead, whilst Super Warriors was a cheesy romp about a magician who cast down his enemies by shooting lightning from the Star of David painted on his forehead.
This put me in mind of an article I recently read by Stephen Ellis and Gerrie Ter Haar. In “Religion and Politics: Taking African Epistemologies Seriously,” they argue that many African approaches to religion* treat the material and the spirit worlds as constituting a single spectrum of reality. They note as well that this historical mode of thought may go some way towards explaining the warm reception of charismatic Christian churches in Africa, whose messages of spiritual healing (and the prosperity gospel) have proven increasingly popular over the last decades. In Ghana, charismatic churches such as the Lighthouse Chapel International have been growing at the expense of the mainline Protestant and Catholic churches at least since the 1970s.
Paul Gifford touches on these issues in his recent study of Ghana’s charismatic movement, which offers up some telling observations of pastors calling upon the holy spirit to counteract juju worked upon members of the congregation. Traditional typologies of spiritual forces may thus co-exist with biblical descriptors of the same phenomena, such as demons. It’s fascinating to see the ways in which a set of cultural practices and beliefs that were at the first utterly un-African (i.e. Christianity) have slowly adapted themselves to their local setting.
*This isn’t intended to over-generalize, however; there’s obviously a huge diversity of religous practice and belief (or unbelief, for that matter) within the continent!
Ghanaian Advertising in Hipstamatic
August 14th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
Ghanaian Nationalism in Hipstamatic
August 12th, 2011 § 3 Comments
Foreign Policy’s recent photo essay on the Afghanistan war in Hipstamatic inspired me to an experiment of my own: Ghana in Hipstamatic. Today’s photos capture some of Ghana’s national symbols in downtown Accra.
Old stadium at Independence Square
Chair with Ghana’s national symbol (I seem to have a thing for nationalistic chairs…)







